Because we’d used up our 90 days in the Schengen area (most of, but not all of Europe), we needed somewhere else to go next. We chose Montenegro, but due to the way days are counted we ended up with one awkward day where we technically couldn’t be in either. The best solution? Pop just over the border to Trebinje, Bosnia and Herzegovina which is in neither.
Bosnia still has a reputation for being unsafe due to the long shadow of the 1990s war, lingering fears about landmines in rural areas, and ongoing political tensions. We did our research and felt comfortable going to Trebinje, as long as we avoided abandoned or rural areas.
There’s no public transport from Dubrovnik, so we were planning to hire a taxi when our very kind host, Antun, offered to drive us. The trip took about 45 minutes and was spectacular: rugged Dalmatian coastline, steep winding roads, dramatic mountains, then vineyards. At the border we were stamped out of Schengen and into Bosnia, quick and easy.
As we drove into Trebinje I could hear Mum in my head saying, “Oh Lisa, you can’t stay here!” 😅 It looked pretty divey at first. Antun took us to a café across from our Airbnb. Everyone was smoking inside and he was about to light up too, so I asked if we could sit outside. He said, “Okay, I’ll stay here,” and I said, “No, because of the smoking,” so he came out as well.
Only three euros for two cappuccinos and an espresso! He refused payment for the drive, but we insisted.
Our Airbnb was possibly the newest building in Trebinje, with the fanciest lift we’ve used anywhere in Europe. The apartment was small but warm and solid, fully insulated and double-glazed, with heated bathroom floors. We had a view of Trebinje’s main landmark, the Hercegovačka Gračanica Temple, beautifully lit at night. Also, yet another 6 lock door like we’ve had in most of Europe. Turn this one 3 times and the other one 3 times. Sean loved the super security 😉
A few days later we walked up to the temple. It’s a Byzantine-style Orthodox church with colourful frescoes, a gilded altar, and sweeping views over the city. A perfect sunny day. You can see our apartment right behind the stadium seating where it says “Leo”
We passed abandoned buildings still scarred with shrapnel from the 1990s war, some left deliberately as reminders, others restored.
We crossed the Bridge of Ivo Andrić, over the clear Trebišnjica River and saw ducks, swans, geese, cormorants, goldeneyes, Eurasian coots (related to pūkekos), and even a stunning pair of wood ducks. This was when we started seeing the peaceful, laid-back, charm of Trebinje. No wonder it’s called the hidden gem of Herzegovina.
Food options for vegetarians are limited, (like Croatia) so we ended up at a small mall food court for pizza. Sean was convinced we’d time-travelled back to the 1980s, the décor, the shops, the smoking in the eating area. With the pizza, came ketchup, mild sauce, hot sauce, and mayo, apparently the Bosnian way! Prices were about half of what we’d been paying in Croatia.
Old Town (Kastel) by the river is compact and charming, with Ottoman-era stone buildings, narrow lanes, ivy-covered walls and cafés. At first it looked like something from the Wild West or ancient Mexico, but as we carried on through, we saw prettier buildings and homes. We fed several stray cats of course.
Most people here look rough, not in a dangerous way, just in a “life’s been hard” way. We felt completely safe, but it was probably our biggest culture shock so far and a reminder of how lucky we are in New Zealand. Bosnia’s ongoing economic struggles stem from the devastating 1992–1995 war, compounded by a complex and dysfunctional political system.
We walked to Arslanagić Bridge, a beautiful example of Ottoman engineering built in 1574 and later relocated stone by stone after flooding from a hydroelectric dam. It was warm, cloudless, and a lovely walk back along the river. We popped into a shop called “Be Cool American Outlet”, which was… not cool at all 😂. We often saw children playing in the street with a ball and having running races.
Unlike Croatia, some shops here open on Sundays. We laughed at the fashion and how even the signage looks like it’s from the 80s. We passed people selling goods from small stalls, a man selling cigarettes, sitting on the opposite side of the path from the cigarettes on a chair (see pic below). Sooo many cars from the 80s, old VWs and even a Yugo. We wandered past an area that becomes a swimming pool and man-made beach in summer.
There are stray dogs here, friendly and healthy-looking. They’re known as community dogs, ear-tagged to show they’ve been neutered, vaccinated, and released as part of a Trap–Neuter–Release programme. Calm adult dogs are returned to their neighbourhoods, while injured or aggressive dogs go to the shelter, though it’s chronically underfunded and often full.
Other random pics
Trebinje wasn’t somewhere we’d ever planned to visit; it was a logistical fix, but it ended up being one of those places that makes you stop and think and we’re glad we went. Life here feels harder, slower, less glossy, yet we felt safe and it reminded us how lucky we are, and how much there is to learn simply by being somewhere unfamiliar.
Next stop: Herceg Novi, Montenegro.
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